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Ophthalmic

Ophthalmic surgery is the specific area of pet care involving treatment of an animal’s eyes. For certain breeds, this service also involves the examination and certification of breeding dogs to verify their eyes are in good condition.

Eye examinations require specific equipment, such as an ophthalmoscope (a magnifying light to look into the eye). Our veterinarians may also use a special dye called fluorescein (it glows a green/yellow colour under a UV light) to identify damage to the cornea (the clear layer at the front of the eye). Many eye conditions can be treated medically, however, specific conditions may require surgery

Our practice is fully equipped to offer the following eye surgeries:

  • Enucleation (removal) of the eye for severe glaucoma or cancer cases  
  • Entropion surgery to prevent ocular damage from inward pointing eye lashes/eyelids
  • Ectropion surgery to correct outward facing lower eyelids
  • Eyelid tumour removal
  • Cherry eye surgery to correct a protruding third eyelid in dogs
  • Surgery to repair corneal ulcers (ulcers on the eye surface)

Our veterinarians can also refer your pet to a specialist veterinary ophthalmologist for specialised procedures such as eye ultrasound, vision testing or cataract removal.

Soft Tissue

Our veterinarians’ high level of expertise and our practice’s fully equipped surgical suite allows us to perform the vast majority of soft tissue surgical procedures that your pet may require. Soft tissue surgery encompasses any surgery that is not related to bones. It includes procedures such as desexing, exploratory laporotomies, caesareans, lump removals, biopsies, wound stitch-ups, removal of intestinal foreign bodies – the list is endless!

A very common soft tissue surgery is the removal of lumps. Some lumps may require a biopsy prior to removal to help understand whether they are cancerous or not. This information assists us in planning the surgery accordingly to give your pet the best possible outcome. Once they have been removed we recommend sending them to our external laboratory for analysis.

Although most lumps are benign (not harmful), a minority are more serious (malignant). In the case of malignant (cancerous) tumours, early removal and an accurate diagnosis is extremely important to maximise the chances of a good outcome.

If you find a lump or bump on your pet please make an appointment to visit one of our veterinarians to discuss any surgery your pet may require.

Please see our section under desexing for more details about this surgery.

Orthopaedic

Orthopaedic surgery encompasses any surgery that is related to bones or joints. It includes procedures such as fracture repairs, ligament repairs and spinal surgery to name a few. 

Our veterinarians’ high level of expertise and our practice’s fully equipped surgical suite allows us to perform certain orthopaedic surgical procedures that your pet may require. These may include:

  • Cranial cruciate ligament repair
  • Fracture (broken bone) repair
  • Amputations for severe injuries or bone cancer cases

Complicated orthopaedic cases, such as spinal surgery, will need to be referred to a specialist orthopaedic surgeon. Our veterinarians will assess each case individually and provide the best advice for you and your pet.

Desexing

Desexing or neutering is a common surgical procedure that involves removing the reproductive organs of your pet to prevent them from reproducing. In males, this procedure is commonly referred to as “castration,” which involves removing the testes, while in females, it is called “spaying,” which involves removing the ovaries and uterus. It is generally a safe and routine surgery and in most cases, your pet can go home on the same day as the surgery.

Desexing your pet before 6 months of age has several benefits, including a reduced risk of certain health issues, such as testicular cancer, prostate disease, pyometra (infection of the uterus), and mammary tumors (breast cancer). Additionally, desexing can help prevent unwanted litters and reduce aggression towards humans and other animals, especially in males.

However, even if your pet is older than 6 months, they can still be desexed. It’s never too late to have your pet desexed, and there are still many benefits to doing so, including reducing the risk of certain health issues and preventing unwanted litters. Moreover, desexing can help your pet live a longer and healthier life and can also reduce council registration fees.

What to do before and after surgery

Before surgery:

  • Book a date for your pets operation
  • Wash your dog the day before surgery, as they will not be able to be washed until the stitches are removed
  • Do not give any food after 10pm the night before the operation
  • Do not give any water after 8am on the day of surgery
  • A blood test may be performed prior to surgery to check vital organ function.
  • The vet will perform a thorough physical examination before administering an anaesthetic
  • Some pets may require intravenous fluid support during surgery, which will be discussed with you prior to the procedure
  • To ensure your pet is as comfortable as possible, they will receive pain relief prior to the surgery and will be sent home with pain relief medication for a few days after the procedure
  • It’s important to follow any other pre-surgical instructions your veterinarian provides to ensure the best possible outcome for your pet

After Surgery:

  • They will be feeling a bit tired, the effects of anaesthetic can take some time to wear off completely
  • Keep them quiet to allow the wound to heal
  • Food and water should be limited to small portions only on the night of the surgery
  • Follow any further dietary instructions that the vet has provided
  • Ensure any post-surgical medications is administered as per the label instructions
  • Ensure your pet’s rest area is clean to avoid infection
  • Check the incision at least twice a day for any signs of infection or disruption (eg. bleeding, swelling, redness or discharge). Contact the vet immediately if these symptoms appear
  • Prevent your pet from licking or chewing the wound – we send you home with an e-collar to assist with this problem
  • Ensure you return to us on time for routine post-operative check-ups and removal of stitches

Common questions about desexing

Q. Will desexing affect my pet’s personality?
A. Some pets may become calmer and less aggressive after being desexed, but it is not guaranteed. Some pets may still exhibit unwanted behaviors even after being desexed, and it is important to address these behaviors with appropriate training and management techniques. It is always best to discuss any concerns about your pet’s behavior with your veterinarian.

Q. Should my female have one litter first?
A. There is no medical or behavioral benefit to allowing a female pet to have a litter before desexing her. In fact, there are potential risks associated with breeding, such as pregnancy complications and the risk of passing on genetic disorders to offspring.

Q. Will it cause my pet to become fat?
A. Your pet’s metabolism may be slowed due to hormonal changes after desexing. However, this can easily be managed with proper diet and exercise. It is important to monitor your pet’s weight and body condition regularly and adjust their food intake and exercise routine as needed to maintain a healthy weight.

Q. Is desexing painful?
A. As with all surgery, there is some tenderness immediately after the procedure, but most pets will recover very quickly. We administer pain relief prior to surgery and after surgery too. Your pet will be discharged with a short course of pain relief medication to take at home for the first few days after the surgery.  In many cases, your pet will likely need some encouragement to take it easy!

Q. Will my dog lose its “guard dog” instinct?
A. No, your dog will be just as protective of their territory as before the surgery. Proper training and socialisation are key to ensuring that a dog’s protective instincts are directed in appropriate ways. It is always recommended to work with a professional dog trainer or behaviorist if you have concerns about your dog’s behavior.

If you have any questions or concerns in relation to your pet’s desexing, give us a call to discuss.

Diabetes in Obese Pets

Diabetes in Obese Pets

Extra body fat can cause a variety of health problems in cats and dogs, including insulin resistance, diabetes, and heart disease. In fact, obesity can lead to a 50% decrease in insulin sensitivity in our pets, which can put them at a high risk for developing diabetes mellitus.

Insulin is a hormone produced by the pancreas to help regulate blood sugar levels. When a cat or dog is overweight, their body becomes resistant to insulin, meaning that their cells are unable to use the insulin to regulate blood sugar levels. This can cause a range of symptoms, including increased thirst and urination, weight loss, and weakness. If left untreated, diabetes can lead to serious health problems, including blindness, kidney failure, and even death.

Weight management is especially important in decreasing a pet’s risk for the development of diabetes mellitus. If you have an overweight pet, it is important to work with your veterinarian to develop a weight loss plan that is safe and effective. This may involve changes to their diet, increased exercise, and other lifestyle changes.

In addition to managing diabetes, weight loss can also help improve overall health in cats and dogs. Pets that are at a healthy weight are less likely to develop a range of health problems, including joint problems, heart disease, and respiratory problems.

Fireworks and loud noises

Fireworks and loud noises

Summer is full of celebrations, sometimes involving fireworks. Dogs and cats react to fireworks individually. Some aren’t upset by the explosions, and others get hurt by panicking and jumping through closed windows or bolting through doors to get away from the terrifying noise and lights.

Many pets get lost, injured or killed during this time, so if your pet isn’t microchipped, this could be lifesaving prevention in order to get an escapee returned home. We can do this in a quick simple appointment on any working day. Its also a good idea for your pets to be wearing an ID tag or a collar that contains your phone number – although it may come off, if it doesn’t your pet can be quickly returned.

Signs of anxiety can include pacing, trembling, panting, drooling, attention-seeking (vocalizing, pawing, nuzzling, and climbing on people), hiding, and bolting. Escape attempts tend to involve hiding behind furniture, and staying in a basement or bathroom. Because the source of the noise is confusing, inside dogs may want to escape to the outside, and outside dogs may be frantic to get inside.

Nervous pets tend to drink more water, so keep more available than usual. Try to be home or have your dog with you during fireworks events, as they will be less anxious if you are home. Bring outside pets inside, so they can’t bolt. Keep your cats securely inside, and if your dog needs a toilet break during the fireworks, have them on a leash, even in a fenced yard.

Remedies

What can you do to keep your frightened pet safe and calm? For many frightened pets, just staying in a crate (as long as they are used to one) or in a “safe” room with a closed door is all that’s needed. Music may disguise the bursts of noise; consider loud music with a regular beat. Also, having the TV on a bit louder than usual may help disguise the sudden loud noises associated with fireworks.

Synthetic pheromone products such as Feliway diffusers for cats and Adaptil diffusers or collars for dogs are worth trying. These products imitate the properties of the natural pheromones of the lactating female that gives kittens or puppies a sense of well-being. 

Some pets respond to pressure wraps, the most well known being  “Thundershirts”. The pressure around the body has a calming effect and works well in many dogs. A great benefit is that you don’t need to know exactly when the fireworks will be, you can put the Thundershirt on around the time they are expected and leave it on for days around festive periods like New Years Eve when fireworks may be sporadic for many hours.

Classical counter conditioning can create a positive association with fireworks if the anxiety isn’t extreme. Give high-value food rewards such as small pieces of cheese, meat or liver treats, offer your pet his favourite toys or food puzzle toys, or have your pet practice his tricks with you. The goal is for him to learn that fireworks result in highly pleasant rewards. 

You can teach a desirable coping response. The appropriate response for a dog facing something frightening is to retreat to a safe place until the frightening thing ends – usually the pet needs to choose their own safe place and the owner needs to ensure this space is available during frightening events. Blankets to muffle the sound and a pheromone diffuser will provide natural motivation for the dog to seek this location. Being able to cope when the world becomes overwhelming is a life skill essential for both people and dogs!  Hiding is not a sign of a problem, if the pet quickly returns to a normal behaviour when the fireworks are over. 

Drug therapies can be discussed with your vet for particularly severe or serious phobias (such as dogs breaking down doors). These can be very effective if the timing of use is correct and they are the right choice for your dog. Some can take weeks to be effective, so ensure you see the veterinarian well in advance of expected fireworks events

Grass Seeds on Your pet

Grass seeds in your pets fur

These nasty little awns can cause a lot of discomfort to your dog, and frustration for your vet and groomer. The very pointed end on a grass seed means it can easily become embedded in your pet’s skin, commonly in the paws, under the tail, armpit or groin region.  The ears are also very susceptible to collecting grass seeds, and also the eyes, as the dogs rub their faces in the grass.

Every vet you ask will have a ‘grass seed horror story’, of that one that got away and caused life-threatening damage, or even death, of a pet. This is because grass seeds can migrate through the body, tracking infection as they go. Dogs may also inhale a grass seed, with it lodging in the lungs and causing a severe chest infection. The body cannot generally break down a grass seed, so wherever it lands, it will eventually require removal. The best way to prevent damage from grass seeds is to find them and remove them as quickly as possible when they are close to the surface and easily accessible. If you suspect a grass seed is lodged too deeply, or there is no sign of a grass seed present but a lump, with pus or blood oozing out, then it is best to have it assessed by a vet straight away. Delaying this visit may result in more invasive surgeries to find and remove the seed. Most dogs will at least need to be sedated to find and remove grass seeds, and I personally have found up to 50 grass seeds in one unlucky dog.

The symptoms of grass seed infections in various locations are described in the following table.

LOCATIONSYMPTOMSPOSSIBLE COMPLICATIONS
EARS– Shaking of the head
– Redness of the ear
– Painful to touch
– Holding the head to one side

– Ear infection
– Rupture of the ear drum
– Permanent loss of hearing, or balance
– Death if infection reaches the brain
EYES – Swollen, red eye
– Excessive tear production
– Rubbing at the eye

– Ulceration of surface of the eye
– Penetration of the eye
– Removal of the eye if damage severe enough
PAWS
– Licking at the toes
– Red, swollen area between the toes
– Swelling of the foot
– Limping or holding the leg up
– Migration of the seed up the leg,
between ligaments and tendons,
possibly into joints or into the chest
NOSE
– Constant sneezing
– Bloody discharge from one nostril
– Rubbing face on the ground
– Difficult breathing

– Damage to airways
– Migration of the grass seed into the lungs;
this is usually life threatening


SKIN
– Swollen, red lump, with blood or pus oozing out
– Dog licking constantly at the site
– Grass seed awns sticking out from the skin

– Migration into the chest or abdomen
– Multiple surgeries to try and locate and remove
– Occasionally CT scan may be required
to locate, as grass seeds are not visible on radiographs
VULVA, PENIS

– Licking at the site
– Difficulty or pain urinating
– Blood in urine
– Swelling and redness
– Invasive surgery to remove
– Permanent damage to structures

Prevention is the Best Cure

Taking these steps is the best way to prevent grass seeds creating issues for your pets

  • Regular (DAILY) checking of your dog all over, including in between each and every toe, and especially after a walk
  • Avoid long grass on walks, and keep your grass and weeds short at home
  • Keep long-haired dogs trimmed or clipped, and well-groomed, especially around their feet and ears. If trimming them yourself, be mindful of clipping the ‘top’ off a grass seed, possibly leaving the end still embedded in the skin. This makes it even harder to find.
  • Seek veterinary attention immediately if you suspect a grass seed problem in any location on your dog. Do not expect your groomer to be able to remove these seeds, as they are often too embedded, or require antibiotic treatment once removed. Many times your pet will need to be sedated to ensure safe grass seed removal, so please be understanding of this.

Anal Glands

What on Earth are Anal Sacs?

Anal sacs (also called anal glands) are two small glands just inside your pet’s anus. The material secreted into these sacs is thick, oily, stinky, and is commonly described as smelling fishy. Most wild animals can empty these glands voluntarily for scent marking or in self-defense (like a skunk might do); however, domestic animals have largely lost their ability to empty these sacs voluntarily. Walking around and normal defecation serve to empty the sacs but some animals become unable to empty their sacs on their own at all. The sacs become impacted and uncomfortable.

Dogs with impacted anal sacs usually scoot their rear on the ground in an attempt to empty the glands. Some dogs will lick their anal area and other dogs will chase their tails. Cats often lick the fur off just under their tails. Some animals are simply vaguely uncomfortable, holding their tails down, shivering, showing reluctance to walk or hiding. Strangely, some animals seem to refer their discomfort to their ears and scratch and shake their ears as if an ear infection were present.

What to do about Scooting?

You should bring your pet into visit us at the clinic.  We can manually empty these glands by inserting a finger into their rectum and gentle expressing the material out of the gland.  This is often all that is needed to relieve the discomfort.

What if Scooting Continues?

If scooting continues for more than a few days after sac emptying, the sacs should be re-checked. For some individuals, it takes several sac emptyings in a row before the sacs stay emptied. If the sacs are empty and scooting is persisting, another cause (such as itchy skin, tapeworms, or even lower back pain) should be pursued.

What Happens if an Impacted Sac doesn’t get Emptied?

An abscess can form and rupture out through the skin. This is a painful, messy and smelly condition often mistaken for rectal bleeding. If an anal sac abscess forms, it will need immediate veterinary treatment.  We may need to flush the glands under sedation and antibiotics will be needed.

How often should Anal Sacs be Emptied?

This is a highly individual situation. The best recommendation is to let the pet tell you when the sacs are full. If the pet starts scooting again, it is time to bring him in.

What if My Pet’s Sacs seem to Require Emptying all the Time?

A non-invasive technique that helps some patients is a change to a high fibre diet. This will produce a bulkier stool that may be more effective in emptying the sac as it passes by.

Anal Sacculectomy

If the sacs need to be emptied every few weeks or more, you may opt to have the sacs permanently removed. This procedure is complicated by many local nerves controlling fecal continence, the fact that any change in the local musculature of the anal sphincter area can affect fecal continence, and the fact that with chronic anal sac problems anatomy is distorted. Draining tracts can develop after surgery if the gland is not completely removed. Still, despite these pitfalls anal sac removal is considered a relatively simple surgery by experienced surgeons.

Many people own pets for years without ever learning that anal sacs exist at all and the “wive’s tale” that worms cause scooting erroneously continues. If you have further questions about anal gland disease give us a call

Dental Malocclusions

MALOCCLUSIONS – “IT DOESN’T BOTHER THE DOG!”

By Dr Wayne Fitzgerald- Dental surgeon

Introduction

“But it isn’t worrying him.” … we hear these words all the time and what do you say when you know this just can’t be true?
Our patients are very good at masking pain, especially chronic pain. People generally can’t ignore their own pain, but can be pretty good at it if it isn’t theirs!
Dental malocclusions do cause discomfort, even significant pain, and generally result in some sort of pathology.
“In people, the main reason for treating malocclusion is cosmetic; in veterinary medicine however, the reason for performing orthodontic correction is to enhance function and prevent disease.” (Jan Bellows, 1999)
Affected animals often become defensive around their head making examination difficult; however, given time these may progress to hard or soft-tissue pathology and even loss of function. Malocclusions are most often hereditary but some such as a tipped tooth may be acquired. Trauma or illness (during a growth period of the jaw bones) may also alter these relationships by changing growth patterns producing a wry mouth or altered functions.
Humans introduced line- or in-breeding, later, these became established types and hence ‘breeds’. Malocclusions are primarily the result of inherited dento-facial proportions governed by breeding for a desired head shape.
Malocclusions may be produced by inheritance in 2 ways:

1. Inherited disproportion between the size of the teeth and the size of the jaws producing a crowded or abnormal spacing of the teeth, or

2. Inherited disproportion between the size or shape of the upper and lower jaws causing improper occlusal relationships.

Genetic isolation and uniformity as seen in wild dogs, rarely produce instances of malocclusion. When this group carries the same genetic information for tooth and jaw size, there is little possibility of individuals inheriting discordant characteristics. Genes that introduce disturbances into the jaws would tend to be eliminated from the population. The ‘typical” specimen has a normal scissor occlusion and tooth/jaw size discrepancies are infrequent as each tends to have the same jaw relationship.
When cross-breeding between distinct breeds occurs, malocclusions may develop. In 1941, this genetic problem was demonstrated by cross-breeding dogs and recording their body structure. It was believed that malocclusions occurred in cross-bred dogs more from jaw length or width discrepancies than from tooth/jaw size imbalances.  However, the miniature dog breeds were examined where the latter is common.  This research confirmed that “independent inheritance of facial characteristics is a major cause of malocclusion and the rapid increase in malocclusion accompanying urbanisation was probably the result of increased out-breeding.”  That is, breeding between dissimilar dogs such as Basset Hounds and English Bulldogs, and we have seen the emergence of such ‘designer breeds’ in the last few decades.